Strange Brew! Homemade Garden Sprays
In Permaculture we like to do things naturally, and we like to exercise our initiative to make use of the resources at hand to achieve our ends.
What better way to do this than to brew up your own DIY garden natural pesticides, fungicides, plant tonics and other such useful concoctions!
I’ve managed to gather a few recipes on my journeys, so I’ve gathered them all here to share, so here they are, enjoy, and safe brewing!!!
Organic White Oil
White Oil is an easy and inexpensive pesticide to prepare. It is used to control scale, aphids, mealy bug, citrus leaf miner, mites and caterpillars on roses, ornamentals, citrus and other fruit trees.
The commercial white oil insecticides sold in garden stores are petroleum based, making them quite expensive, and also the kind of thing you don’t really want to be spraying around your garden.
Traditional white oil is vegetable oil based and has been in use for around two centuries. If it worked all that time, it still works now!
How to Make White Oil
You will need:
- 2 cups of vegetable oil
- 1/2 cup pure liquid soap (use pure organic castile soap, made from olive oil if you want to keep it all natural)
- Empty jar or wide-mouth bottle
- Plastic spray bottle
Pour the vegetable oil and liquid soap into a bottle or jar and shake until the mixture turns white. This is concentrated white oil and to use it, it needs to be diluted with water.
To use, add 10ml per litre or water (two teaspoons per litre of water), put in a spray bottle, shake well. Now you can spray your plants or trees.
Store in a cool, dry place, shelf life is approximately three months from the day it’s made.
Note – use during mild weather, if you use it when the temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius or higher, it will damage your plants as the oil will clog the pores in the leaves. Morning or late evenings area a good time. Also, don’t use it on plants that have hairy or soft leaves, as it will burn their leaves. Spray on both sides of the leaves, branches and bark to target pests wherever they may be hiding.
How does white oil work?
White oil works by coating the insects in oil, blocking their breathing pores, which suffocates them. Because it works through physical suffocation, and not through a chemical action, insects cannot develop resistance to it, ever!
If you don’t have liquid soap, don’t despair, we use what’s available! If you have a bar of soap (natural of course – use castile soap bars which are made from olive oil preferably!), here’s the alternative recipe:
How to Make White Oil (with a bar or soap)
You will need:
- 1/2 cup vegetable oil
- 1 cup water
- 1 tablespoon natural soap (in flakes) – grated from a bar of soap
- 1 plastic spray bottle
Grate the natural soap, and put 1 tablespoon of these soap flakes into the spray bottle.
Pour the vegetable oil and water into the spray bottle.
Shake the spray bottle well. Now you can spray your plants or trees.
Slug and Snail Spray
You can make a simple spray very cheaply that dissolves slugs and snails without affecting your plants.
This spray simply consists of 1 part ammonia to 4 parts water in a spray bottle, with a dash of liquid soap to make it stick better on the pests. One or two squirts and they dissolve into a foaming green sludge. The slugs are gone instantly because they don’t have a shell to protect themselves, the snails might need a second squirt to coat them well in the spray. Set the nozzle of the spray bottle to a narrow jet so you can target them precisely and give them a good dose of the stuff.
You will need:
- Plastic spray bottle
- 1 teaspoon (5ml) of pure liquid soap (use pure organic castile soap, made from olive oil if you want to keep it all natural)
- 100ml of Cloudy Ammonia
- 400ml of water
I use a 500ml spray bottle with measurements on the side, which makes the process really easy. Pour 100ml of Cloudy Ammonia into the spray bottle, add 400ml of water, then add a dash of liquid soap to make the mixture stick better to pests. Shake bottle lightly, and you’re ready to hunt these nasty garden molluscs!
Best time to hunt these critters is just when it gets dark, or after it has just rained, which is when they crawl out for a feed. Grab a torch/flashlight, and look for them, if you see them, spray them. Do this over several nights and it puts a serious dent in their population.
Pyrethrum Daisy and Feverfew General Pesticide
This pesticide is natural Pyrethrum insecticide, which comes from the Pyrethrum Daisy (Tanacetum cinerariaefolium). This plants is a common companion plant in organic gardens, and Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), also of the daisy family, is a herbal remedy for headaches, and also has pest repellent/insecticidal properties. These flat composite flowers also attract beneficial predator insects such as hover flies which prey on aphids and other pest insects.
You will need:
- 2 parts Feverfew flowers
- 1 part Pyrethrum flowers
- Kerosene or Mineral oil
- 2 drops Sesame oil
To make this spray:
- Chop flowers.
- Cover with kerosene or mineral oil.
- Soak overnight in a dark place.
- Strain liquid.
- Dilute one part liquid in six parts water.
- Add sesame oil and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Chilli and Wormwood Spray
This is a multi-purpose spay that can be used to:
Spray on plants to repel possums, rabbits, snails and slugs
Spray on plants to kill aphids, bean fly and white fly
You will need:
- 1 cup of hot Chillies, the hotter varieties work best
- 1 cup of Wormwood leaves
- 6 cups of water
To make this spray:
- Blend Chillies and Wormwood with 1 cup of water.
- Add 5 cups of water and bring to the boil.
- Allow to stand for one hour.
- Strain and spray.
Caution: Do not allow to come in contact with eyes or skin!
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Coriander (Cilantro) Spray
This spray is effective against spider mites and aphids
You will need:
- 1 part Coriander plant
- equal part water
To make this spray:
- Boil Coriander and water for 10 minutes.
- Strain and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Pennyroyal Ant Repellent Oil
To use this ant repellent, simply paint Pennyroyal oil on ant tracks and nests.
You will need:
- 1/2 cup of Pennyroyal leaves
- 1 cup of Safflower oil
To make this oil:
- Combine Pennyroyal and oil in a blender.
- Bottle and cap.
Leave this mixture for a day in a warm spot, and then it is ready to use.
Chamomile, Chives, Elder, Horseradish and Casuarina General Fungicide
This fungicide is good for treating mildew, black spot, damping off and rust
You will need a selection of:
- Chamomile flowers
- Chive leaves
- Elder leaves
- Horseradish leaves
- Casuarina leaves
To make this spray:
- Cover the leaves and flowers with water.
- Bring to the boil.
- Let stand 30 minutes.
Spray is now ready to use.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Elder General Pesticide and Fungicide
This spray is especially good for aphids, caterpillars, thrips and black spot.
You will need:
- 500g Elder leaves
- 3.5L water
To make this spray:
- Simmer leaves in water for 30 minutes.
- Replace water lost as steam.
- Strain and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Borax Ant Bait
Ants can be a major pest in the garden because the “farm” aphids and scale – they safeguard them in their nests then carry them onto plants, and collect the honeydew that they excrete when the aphids and scale feed off the plant’s sap. The ants defend these pests from predators too. The simplest way to break the cycle is to bait the ants with a toxic bait that that doesn’t kill them instantly, they take it back to their nest, and feed the rest of the ants there, and it slowly destroys the whole colony. Borax is a natural occurring mineral salt,but is poisonous when swallowed, not recommended for use in homes with children and / or pets.
You will need:
- 4 teaspoons of borax
- 700ml of water
- glass screw top jar
- small jar
- cotton wool
To make this bait:
- Mix 1 cup of sugar, 4 teaspoons of borax and 24 ounces (700ml) of water in a glass screw top jar.
- Shake thoroughly until you can see that all the crystals are dissolved.
- Now put 1 cup of this mixture into a smaller jar which you have filled halfway with loose cotton wool.
- Firmly screw the lid back on, seal around the band with weatherproof tape and using an awl punch a few small holes in the centre of the lid.
- Put this near the entrance of the nest or wherever they have made a path to your house.
The key is the ants will get into the jar to eat the sugar and return to the nest and pass it on to the rest of the colony. If you find many dead ants by the jar dilute the solution and try again. With a proper mixture the colony may be destroyed in a few weeks. It does take the destruction of the queen to completely eradicate a colony. Keep this away from kids and pets.
Earwig Bait Trap
This is a baited trap for earwigs that is buried in the soil with a small cover over it to prevent the trap filling water when it rains. It uses soy sauce as the attractant (bait) to draw the earwigs in, and the oils ensures that when they fall in, they can’t swim and crawl out, and they drown in the container.
You will need:
- 2 tablespoons (30ml) soy sauce
- vegetable oil
- any small container that is reasonably deep, such as a small jar, plastic yogurt container, tuna tin or similar
- cover for the small container, which is reasonably larger than the container, such as a lid from a larger jar (large plastic lids work well)
Bait for Earwigs can be made as follows:
- In a small container (small yogurt container, small jar, tuna tin, large pill bottle or anything that is fairly deep), add 2 tablespoons (30ml) of soy sauce, and then pour in vegetable oil to form a layer about 6mm deep.
- Another way to do it is to put water in the fill the container up to 1/3 of its depth, add the soy sauce, then add just enough oil to cover the surface in a thin layer.
- Now bury the container up to its top in the soil, but leave it stick up a slight amount so the soil and surrounding dirt doesn’t fall in and fill the trap, which will render it ineffective. Put some kind of cover or lid over the trap, so it doesn’t get flooded and washed out when it rains. Use a cover larger than the container, so it extends a reasonable way around the edge of the small container to act as a kind of shelter. You can prop up the lid with 4 stones around the jar so that it leaves a small gap all the way around between the container and the cover for the earwigs to crawl under.
- Leave it there for a few days and it will fill with earwigs. You can dump the resultant mess into the compost, and then refill the container for the next round.
This selection should get your garden out of trouble the most problems you’ll come against, and it’s all fairly natural, and best of all, it’s cheap and easy!
Happy brewing!!!
July 9, 2011 at 3:51 pm |
NIce info, thanks, never found anything that kills spidermites.
Horsetail, boiled for 20 mins, strain, dilute 1:20 with water, effective against blight and mildew. The silica also gives the plants better general desease resisitance and they need less staking out too, peace
July 10, 2011 at 1:45 am |
Hi Winston,
Thanks for an excellent tip, horsetail is an excellent plant to have around the garden, it has so many uses!
For spider mites, I found that Neem soap (liquid soap made from natural ingredients with oil from the Neem tree) works fairly well by suffocating them and disrupting their reproductive cycle. Another thing though, I learned to read nature’s signs, spider mites will attack plants that are weakened or sick, so check if the plants being attacked are in an unfavourable location (in terms of sufficient light or shade) and that the soil type and soil moisure levels are appropriate. I’ve found that relocting a plant yo a more favourable location can make a world of difference. Sometimes, actually often, the pests aren’t the problem, they’re the symptoms of a deeper underlying problem.
Regards
November 6, 2012 at 8:14 pm |
great value wetting agent simple dident know it was that easy beats paying big dollars at the garden shops thanks keep up the good work
November 11, 2012 at 11:20 am |
Hi, thanks for sharing your wonderful garden, your knowledge and experience. It is simply inspirational. I have had a no chemical pesticides policy for the 10 years I have had my suburban block and small evolving permaculture and native garden. But now I have white ants in some old wood stored near my shed. I don’t want to use pesticides but I don’t want to lose my wooden floors. Any suggestions?
November 11, 2012 at 12:29 pm |
If it’s just old wood stored in the shed, the simplest solution would be to use it as firewood. The natural role of termites is to break down dead trees (wood/timer) to eventually return the organic matter back to the soil. Termites attacking the timber floors in your home would be a different matter altogether. Since we’re talking about indoor pest control rather than out in the garden, it’s a bit out of my area of knowledge. Preventative solutions for houses include using termite resistant timbers, construction methods which don’t place non-termite resistant timbers in direct contact with soil, etc. Outdoors, there are biological controls availables such such as nematodes which attack termites.