In Permaculture we like to do things naturally, and we like to exercise our initiative to make use of the resources at hand to achieve our ends.
What better way to do this than to brew up your own DIY garden natural pesticides, fungicides, plant tonics and other such useful concoctions!
I’ve managed to gather a few recipes on my journeys, so I’ve gathered them here to share, so here they are. Enjoy, and safe brewing!!!
Organic White Oil
White Oil is an easy and inexpensive pesticide to prepare. It is used to control scale, aphids, mealy bug, citrus leaf miner, mites and caterpillars on roses, ornamentals, citrus and other fruit trees.
The commercial white oil insecticides sold in garden stores are petroleum based, making them quite expensive, and also the kind of thing you don’t really want to be spraying around your garden.
Traditional white oil is vegetable oil based and has been in use for around two centuries. If it worked all that time, it still works now!
How to Make Organic Horticultural Oil
You will need:
- 2 cups of vegetable oil
- 1/2 cup pure liquid soap (use pure organic castile soap, made from olive oil if you want to keep it all natural)
- Empty jar or wide-mouth bottle
- Plastic spray bottle
To make this spray:
Pour the vegetable oil and liquid soap into a bottle or jar and shake until the mixture turns white. This is concentrated white oil and to use it, it needs to be diluted with water.
To use, add 10ml per litre or water (two teaspoons per litre of water), put in a spray bottle, shake well. Now you can spray your plants or trees.
Store in a cool, dry place, shelf life is approximately three months from the day it’s made.
Note – use during mild weather, if you use it when the temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius or higher, it will damage your plants as the oil will clog the pores in the leaves. Morning or late evenings are a a good time. Also, don’t use it on plants that have hairy or soft leaves, as it will burn their leaves. Spray on both sides of the leaves, branches and bark to target pests wherever they may be hiding.
How Does Horticultural Oil Work?
Horticultural oil, also known as ‘white oil’ works by coating the insects in oil, blocking their breathing pores, which suffocates them. Because it works through physical suffocation, and not through a chemical action, insects cannot develop resistance to it, ever!
Slug and Snail Spray
You can make a simple spray very cheaply that dissolves slugs and snails without affecting your plants.
This spray simply consists of 1 part ammonia to 4 parts water in a spray bottle, with a dash of liquid soap to make it stick better on the pests. One or two squirts and they dissolve into a foaming green sludge. The slugs are gone instantly because they don’t have a shell to protect themselves, the snails might need a second squirt to coat them well in the spray. Set the nozzle of the spray bottle to a narrow jet so you can target them precisely and give them a good dose of the stuff.
You will need:
- Plastic spray bottle
- 1 teaspoon (5ml) of pure liquid soap (use pure organic castile soap, made from olive oil if you want to keep it all natural)
- 100ml of Cloudy Ammonia
- 400ml of water
I use a 500ml spray bottle with measurements on the side, which makes the process really easy. Pour 100ml of Cloudy Ammonia into the spray bottle, add 400ml of water, then add a dash of liquid soap to make the mixture stick better to pests. Shake bottle lightly, and you’re ready to hunt these nasty garden molluscs!
Best time to hunt these critters is just when it gets dark, or after it has just rained, which is when they crawl out for a feed. Grab a torch/flashlight, and look for them, if you see them, spray them. Do this over several nights and it puts a serious dent in their population.
Pyrethrum Daisy and Feverfew General Pesticide
This pesticide is natural Pyrethrum insecticide, which comes from the Pyrethrum Daisy (Tanacetum cinerariaefolium), a common companion plant in organic gardens, and Feverfew (Tanacetum parthenium), also of the daisy family, a herbal remedy for headaches, also with pest repellent/insecticidal properties. These flat composite flowers also attract beneficial predator insects such as hover flies which prey on aphids and other pest insects.
You will need:
- 2 parts Feverfew flowers
- 1 part Pyrethrum flowers
- Mineral oil
- 2 drops Sesame oil
To make this spray:
- Chop flowers.
- Cover with mineral oil.
- Soak overnight in a dark place.
- Strain liquid.
- Dilute one part liquid in six parts water.
- Add sesame oil and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Chilli and Wormwood Spray
This is a multi-purpose spray that can be used to:
- Spray on plants to repel possums, rabbits, snails and slugs
- Spray on plants to kill aphids, bean fly and white fly
You will need:
- 1 cup of hot chillies, the hotter varieties work best
- 1 cup of wormwood leaves
- 6 cups of water
To make this spray:
- Blend chillies and wormwood with 1 cup of water.
- Add 5 cups of water and bring to the boil.
- Allow to stand for one hour.
- Strain and spray.
Do not allow to come in contact with eyes or skin!
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Coriander (Cilantro) Pesticide Spray
This spray is effective against spider mites and aphids
You will need:
- 1 part coriander plant
- equal part water
To make this spray:
- Boil coriander and water for 10 minutes.
- Strain and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Pennyroyal Ant Repellent Oil
To use this ant repellent, simply paint Pennyroyal oil on ant tracks and nests.
You will need:
- 1/2 cup of Pennyroyal leaves
- 1 cup of Safflower oil
To make this oil:
- Combine Pennyroyal and oil in a blender.
- Bottle and cap.
Leave this mixture for a day in a warm spot, and then it is ready to use.
Chamomile, Chives, Elder, Horseradish and Casuarina General Fungicide
This fungicide is good for treating mildew, black spot, damping off and rust
You will need a selection of:
- Chamomile flowers
- Chive leaves
- Elder leaves
- Horseradish leaves
- Casuarina leaves
To make this spray:
- Cover the leaves and flowers with water.
- Bring to the boil.
- Let stand 30 minutes.
Spray is now ready to use.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
Elderberry General Pesticide and Fungicide
This spray is especially good for aphids, caterpillars, thrips and black spot.
You will need:
- 500g Elder leaves
- 3.5L water
To make this spray:
- Simmer leaves in water for 30 minutes.
- Replace water lost as steam.
- Strain and spray.
You can increase the effectiveness of the spray by adding additional ingredients to make it stick better to its intended target by using either a wetting agent or a spreader sticker, as described below.
Wetting Agent – Pure soap flakes used at 10g per litre of spray, or liquid soap at 10ml per litre of spray is an effective wetting agent for the above spray.
Spreader Sticker – Coconut oil used at 5ml per litre of spray is an effective spreading agent for the above spray.
This selection of homebrew pest control measures should get your garden out of trouble and deal with most problems you’ll come against. Best of all, they’re fairly natural, cheap and easy to make!
Happy brewing!!!
NIce info, thanks, never found anything that kills spidermites.
Horsetail, boiled for 20 mins, strain, dilute 1:20 with water, effective against blight and mildew. The silica also gives the plants better general desease resisitance and they need less staking out too, peace 🙂
Hi Winston,
Thanks for an excellent tip, horsetail is an excellent plant to have around the garden, it has so many uses!
For spider mites, I found that Neem soap (liquid soap made from natural ingredients with oil from the Neem tree) works fairly well by suffocating them and disrupting their reproductive cycle. Another thing though, I learned to read nature’s signs, spider mites will attack plants that are weakened or sick, so check if the plants being attacked are in an unfavourable location (in terms of sufficient light or shade) and that the soil type and soil moisure levels are appropriate. I’ve found that relocting a plant yo a more favourable location can make a world of difference. Sometimes, actually often, the pests aren’t the problem, they’re the symptoms of a deeper underlying problem.
Regards
great insight, it is always best to look at why these insects are there in the first place.
great value wetting agent simple dident know it was that easy beats paying big dollars at the garden shops thanks keep up the good work
Hi, thanks for sharing your wonderful garden, your knowledge and experience. It is simply inspirational. I have had a no chemical pesticides policy for the 10 years I have had my suburban block and small evolving permaculture and native garden. But now I have white ants in some old wood stored near my shed. I don’t want to use pesticides but I don’t want to lose my wooden floors. Any suggestions?
If it’s just old wood stored in the shed, the simplest solution would be to use it as firewood. The natural role of termites is to break down dead trees (wood/timer) to eventually return the organic matter back to the soil. Termites attacking the timber floors in your home would be a different matter altogether. Since we’re talking about indoor pest control rather than out in the garden, it’s a bit out of my area of knowledge. Preventative solutions for houses include using termite resistant timbers, construction methods which don’t place non-termite resistant timbers in direct contact with soil, etc. Outdoors, there are biological controls availables such such as nematodes which attack termites.
Love your website, your garden and your commitment to sharing knowlege and results. I was an organic back yard gardener and was about to increase the size of my garden when I found your site which has not only changed my new garden (which thankfully is nearly done) but also means redesigning my existing garden too, you are right it is a lot of work but all good stuff and cool to see what can be achieved out of a similar sized garden.
Quick question, I have just noticed what the local garden centre advise is Verrucosis on an existing lemon and lime. They have recommended liquid copper which looks ok but thought I would check with my mentor (you) and see if you knew if ok and why this happens, what prevention if any is there?
Anyway thanks, you are a legend and an inspiration.
Thanks for the great feedback and nice comments!
Verrucosis (lemon scab) is a fungal disease that is more common in cool, wet summers. The damage is only cosmetic and doesn’t affect the fruit taste or quality. It is treated with a copper fungicide (copper hydroxide or copper oxychloride) which prevents the growth of the disease, the tree should be sprayed before, during and after and flowering. Infected fruit (and in advanced stages of infection, leaves and stems) are cut away and disposed of to prevent re-infection.
Looking forward to trying your earwig traps this spring,as we have a big problem with them eating all our produce
So since the Castile soap is made from olive oil, can I use olive oil instead of vegetable oil in the Oil Spray?
You can definitely use olive oil, it is in fact considered a ‘vegetable oil’, so that’s fine!
Great, thanks for the reply. Love the site.
What is “cloudy” ammonia, in your recipe for the slug spray? And is the Elder leaf referred to the Sambucus genus, any particular species? Thanks for all the great info!
‘Cloudy ammonia’ also known as household ammonia is basically dilute ammonium hydroxide.
Elder leaf is Sambucus nigra, though other Sambucus species such as Sambucus Canadensis will probably also work.
While waiting for my next flight, found your site. I am just starting with my little permaculture projects. Learned so much, practical info, unbelievable. Amazing site. Well writen. Don’t know how to express my joy and gratitude.
Thanks! 🙂
Many thanks for your generosity, we surely need to be good stewards of our environment. I cant express my joy enough, this is wonderful stuff.
Will cloudy ammonia (used in the slug and snail spray) be harmful to animals that come in contact or eat the plants?
It will wash off into the soil, where it will become part of the nitrogen cycle, so it’s not persistent. When its on any plant, no animal will eat it, it smells of that characteristic ammonia smell which is unpleasant.
Thanks for the info, Angelo!
Have you published a book with your natural remedies? I make soap
with Saponaria. This is a wonderful website.
In early summer I started with your slug an snail killer recipe. It works just fine, better than anything else. Since then I killed at least 6’000 slugs on a 200 m2 garden! Still, the slugs attack my plants. Sometimes it seems to be fiercer than ever, a real war. I noticed, that the big brown snails mostly disappeared, instead small black ones took over and sometimes there are more than 10 slugs on one leave. So, I have to assume, that the big ones at least kept the black ones in check, and I disturbed that balance with my killing.
Leopard slugs eat other slugs and snails, but snails are herbivorous and only eat plants, maybe the slugs now have more food!
Sounds like you need a duck in your garden, and with a garden that big, you have space for them!
Yes, ducks would be preferable. If only my family agrees. They want chickens.
I killed 4 – 5 Leopard slugs before I learnt about their usefulness. They were so fearsome big. What do you mean with slugs having now more food?
I also made heaps with branches and cuttings to attract hedgehogs and blindworms. But hedgehogs only pass by when walking trough several gardens. I presume they ignore the sprayed slugs because of the stink.
Borax is about as toxic as table salt. Excessive table salt ingestion can and will kill a person. So that means that salt is “a natural occurring mineral salt, but is poisonous when swallowed, not recommended for use in homes with children and / or pets.” We all know that is a bit silly. I make this point because many people demonize borax without realizing that many common household chemicals (some of them “natural”) are just as toxic and some are quite a bit more toxic than borax. But those chemicals seldom get the same amount of bad press as borax. And no, I do not work in the borax industry. Basically, borax is very safe to use. No, I wouldn’t want to eat the stuff. It actually tastes awful. But it is not at all dangerous to use around people or mammal pets.
Do you have a recipe for dormant oil (or winter oil)? It doesn’t seem to be the same as white oil. Thanks!
Thank you for all the time you have taken to share your experience and wonderful permaculture garden with us all. It has been a huge inspiration to me as I begin planning my own small suburban garden.
For the first time this winter (USA, hardiness zone 6), I have set up a small unheated greenhouse on my patio to overwinter some tender container-grown herbs and to grow/maintain some salad greens for winter consumption. Unfortunately, the salad greens are being nibbled on. I’ve caught one caterpillar and I don’t see any slug trails, so I’m guessing there are still more caterpillars hiding in the containers. Would you suggest any of your recipes above for this situation? Also, is the recipe for using Elder leaves for fresh or dried leaves? I don’t have fresh but could probably find dried. Many thanks!
I think I’ve discovered at least one of the culprits: greenhouse millipede. Found several of them this evening hiding under a piece of cabbage that I put in each pot as a “trap”. I’ll try removing the mulch and venting the greenhouse better. Diatomaceous earth is also recommended for drying out the soil. I’d appreciate any advice you might have. Thank you.
I am BEYOND MAD with this article! I did the oil spray and I killed all my citrus trees! The oil is sticky and the leaf can’t breath anymore and is dying.. also the branches are dying. Please remove the part where you put any type of oil. It is ridiculous that you actually published this!
That is definitely not possible! You did follow the instructions?
You do not use the homemade white oil straight on trees, you add a small amount to a lot of water – the instructions clearly say “To use, add 10ml per litre or water (two teaspoons per litre of water), put in a spray bottle, shake well. Now you can spray your plants or trees.” Commercial petroleum-based white oil is actually used at twice this strength of 20mL per L of water for scale insects.
Also, you do not use the homemade white oil on a very hot day, as the instructions clearly warn “Note use during mild weather, if you use it when the temperature is around 30 degrees Celsius or higher, it will damage your plants as the oil will clog the pores in the leaves. Morning or late evenings area a good time.”
What soap did you use? Was it proper pure organic liquid castile soap which is made from olive oil? Do not use synthetic soaps, detergents, dishwashing liquids, or liquid soap scented with essential oils as these will burn the leaves.
Is there something to get rid of termites in potted plants?
Are you sure they are termites? Termites live in special mounds they construct and eat wood…
Super pest management
What do you suggest for squash bugs?
A soap or oil based spray works well, with these sprays you need to spray the pest directly.
At my job recently I have come in contact and been severely sick due to white hickory tussock caterpillar, the rash is horrible but the nausea has become unbearable, there are woods behind our office but it’s a very steep unclimbable hill, they probably come down off the hill and come down to where our company has break, I’m the 3rd yet most severe case at my job, is there something I can spray in our break area so we aren’t sick always?
Contact with the poisonous hairs of the Hickory tussock moth caterpillar causes skin rashes or possibly a hypersensitivity reaction. Don’t touch these fuzzy caterpillars!
You can safely control these tussock moth caterpillars by spraying Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) insecticide, sold as Dipel, Thuricide, and other brand names onto the leaves of the plants and trees that they are eating. BT is a naturally occurring soil bacteria, and its use as a caterpillar insecticide is certified for organic gardening. It will kill them in around three days. Make sure you don’t spray it if it’s going to rain in a few hours as the bacteria will get washed away before the caterpillars have a chance to ingest them.
Wow, you’ve provided some great information here! Hey one question I have – My family lives on a farm in New Zealand and have been getting over-run by flies, I guess from all the cow patties in the paddocks nearby. I was wondering whether you know of any natural ways of combating this problem? Perhaps hedges of Tea Tree or Lavender might work?
In ancient England they used the herb Tansy as a fly repellent, you can use that and it should work great, it worked for medieval English peasants who didn’t have glass windows. You could also try lemon or citronella scented pelargoniums (often mistakenly called ‘scented geraniums’ – they’re related but mot the same).
I work at a pest control company, and I am always looking to expand my knowledge on organic ways of ridding termite infestations. Really detailed stuff, might end up kicking me out of business someday. I was wondering, do any of these homemade sprays have damaging effects on small pets? Does not seam like they would since it is organic, but I thought I would make sure.
As long as people build timber structures in places where termites live, you’ll have plenty of work for a long time to come! The role of termites in nature is to break down fallen dead trees, they can’t distinguish between dead trees and dead trees (timber) that humans build things out of unfortunately!
Yes, all these sprays are safe for the user, the environment and pets large and small. Obviously, with the chilli-wormwood spray, which has hot chillies in it, it’s not exactly anti-riot grade capsicum spray but be careful when spraying it!
I found your web page while looking for a way to make my own garden sprays using natural ingredients instead of chemicals. I congratulate you on all the top information on your page & can’t wait start to make sprays & declare war on the many pests who visit our garden & cause us grief. Thank you so much a brilliant page. Also, a few words to Oli Rusu sounds to me this person did not follow the instructions correctly. “Grow Up Mate” read & follow instructions don’t blame someone else for your own mistakes.
I really appreciate all the info on your website. I have a second year to be planted pomegranite tree that has fruit for the first time. I am so excited but noticed black spots on them. I am going to try your fruit tree spray on it.
For those who ask about termites, Diatomaceous earth will kill them when they are dusted liberally. We had termites infesting a wooden window sill on the outside of our house, and we coated the window with the powder and got it into the cracks as well as we could. There were hundreds of them, and after the dusting, they were never seen again.
I have about 300 orange trees and I need to spray them for insects bugs etc. What would be the safest method of spray
Method or product? Are you asking how you spray that many trees? Or what to use? What pests are you spraying for?
I have leaf miners on my willow tree. if I throw them in the compost (which freezes over the winter) will they come back?
It’s best to remove and destroy (bag and bin) leaves which have been attacked by leaf miner, preventing the pupating pest from hatching. The pupating pest inside of the leaf will overwinter and survive the cold, that’s how they come back each year!
Hi I love your articles. Always been organic but now (at 60) I want to go further, obviously need to learn as quick as possible so I can put into long term practice. I have a small back garden in UK and just constructed six 1mx2m raised beds and two 1m x 300cm deeper raised beds 2. I also have a greenhouse. Two questions I would appreciate you help on if possible.
1: When planting out crops grown from seed into the raised beds, the plants obviously need space to grow. So when first planted there will be a lot of empty soil. Empty soil not good, how does permaculture get over this? Sorry if this is a daft questions, but as said I am pretty new to permaculture.
2: Do you know what the small black flies are that live in compost? They look a bit like fruit flies but the body is not so big. I think the grub lives in the soil and eats the roots of the plant. Ive seen them in house plants and greenhouse plants but not in the garden. If you know what they are do you have a natural treatment for them? From my research I think they could be fungus gnat or scarid fly.
Thanks for the great feedback! To answer your questions:
1. In permaculture we avoid bare soil by mulching, covering the soil with a layer of mulch approximately 5-7cm thick.
2. The little flies that live in indoor plants whose larvae eat plant roots are fungus gnats. The little flies that live in the compost bin are a different creature altogether, I believe they’re vinegar flies. There are a few controls for fungus gnats, neem oil insecticide, pyrethrum, and the biological controls which are living organisms. One is the naturally occurring soil bacterium Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). Different strains of Bt target specific pests, and Bt var. israelensis (Bti), also referred to as the H-14 strain kills the larvae of fungus gnat. Another biological control are specific beneficial nematodes which kill fungus gnat larvae.
Hello,
Just researching permaculture and planning my first garden in the next couple months. Wondering how useful is it to plant companion plants with anti-insect properties vs making your own insecticide? Would I want to do both? Should I make an effort to plant for example pennyroyal, feverfew, pyrethrum, coriander etc to ward off pests or would it be better for me to just make the aforementioned sprays and oils? For reference I dont have tons of space and will most likely need to do some containers/raised beds with surrounding shrubs, vines, trees. Thank you!
Hi Becky, thanks for your question. I started off making my organic sprays, but then tried companion planting and haven’t looked back, natural pest control works wonders for most pests. My whole garden is companion planted extensively these days.
Can you use sage tincture on fruit trees or liquid as they seem to be sticky.
Do you mean that the leaves are sticky? That would indicate that you have an aphid problem, and the sticky sap that the aphids excrete may go black, that’s sooty mould, which you can hose off. Spray the aphids with horticultural oil to get rid of them.
whats horticultural oil please
It’s an oil-based pesticide that’s sprayed to kill pest insects, and it just works by suffocating them. The safe horticultural oils are based on natural ingredients, so they don’t harm the soil either.
Hi Angelo,
Id appreciate your thoughts on the safety of Yates Success Ultra which is based on a beneficial soil bacteria. White cabbage moth caterpillars have decimated my kale, bok choi and sage. These herbs are spread within the garden making it hard to cover with an exclusion net and Ive physically removed quite a few green caterpillars but would prefer something I can spray. Ive tried chilli powder mixed with water in a spray bottle but it clogged the spray mechanism so didnt work. I am am not sure where I could get wormwood leaves to make your chilli spray so wondering if Yates Success would be a reasonable alternative. PS how is your work with the garden chemical to its app going?
Use Dipel for caterpillar control if you want a spray insecticide, it’s a living soil bacterium (Bacillus thuringiensis) which kills caterpillars after they ingest it when they eat a leaf it’s been sprayed on. If I recall, in Australia Yates changed the name to Yates Nature’s Way Caterpillar Control or some silly name like that.
Yates Success Ultra is Spinetoram which is is semi synthetic second-generation derivative of Spinosad (the older Yates Success). It’s essentially a semi-synthetic chemical which is similar to Spinosad in toxicity, both are highly toxic to bees, moderately toxic to beneficial insects such as parasitoids (wasps) and general predators, moderately toxic to earthworms. The overall persistence hazard of spinosad and its biologically active metabolites are rated as high, it doesn’t break down easily in the environment and remains active for many weeks or months depending on conditions. The hazard for bioaccumulation, the capacity to accumulate at higher concentrations in living things, is classed as moderate.
Furthermore, despite the claims of Spinosad being ‘natural’ the compound is a toxic byproduct formed when the actinomycete Saccharopolyspora spinosa, a bacterial organism isolated from soil in an abandoned rum distillery in 1982, carries out its aerobic fermentation process. It was introduced by Dow AgroSciences, an agricultural chemical company, in 1997. Due to low yields of spinosad from the organisms, the compound is now either produced synthetically, or using genetically modified organisms.
In short, it’s not safe, despite the corporate green-washing, so best to avoid it!
Thank you for your detailed response Angelo. Your knowledge is incredible and will help keep our garden safe for insects.
I know this is an old thread but hopefully, someone can help. Every June/ July I get THOUSANDS of tiny millipedes in my basement. They come in and die. I’ve tried lots of different Bug killer/ pesticides/ essential oils etc… to keep them out but nothing does the job. I’m sweeping them up on a daily basis. Can anyone help? ???
Can you put the white oil into a two gallon spray tank?
Yes, of course you can, it needs to be applied by spraying.
Thanks for sharing these homemade insecticides that keep garden pest free naturally. Very helpful for me.
I found your article on how to make and use homemade garden spray and wanted to say thanks for posting it. I love the idea of using something like White Oil as a pesticide because it is easy and inexpensive to prepare at home AND you don’t have to worry about spraying dangerous chemicals in your garden!
I really enjoyed your blog post on how to make DIY homemade garden sprays. I’m a gardener myself and would love to try that out!
Thanks for posting that awesome article on making your own DIY garden spray. I’ve been wanting to get into gardening and this was a great read!